Choco-awesome!

One of the best days of my life happened over the weekend.

How do you start off an awesome day?  I’ll tell you how I do.  Coffee and a muffin from Bouchon.

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What made it one of the best days of my life?  Here’s a hint…

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Can you figure it out yet?  How about now…

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Okay no, I didn’t enroll myself into pastry school.  Well, sort of.  For my 30th b-day my wonderful in-laws sent me to a one-day cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America.  I chose “Chocolates and Confections,” since chocolate is one of those areas that you basically need to be a scientist to “get it.”  I can do cakes, I can do breads, I can do cookies, cake pops, and even french macaroons.  But chocolate?  Forget it.  Until now!

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The instructor for my course was none other than Chef Stephen Durfee, past Executive Pastry Chef at the French Laundry, James Beard award winner for “Outstanding Pastry Chef,” named one of the 10 best pastry chefs in America, etc.  Last month he competed as the chocolatier on “Team America” at the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie (which is basically the Olympics of pastry competitions).  He made a flipping bicycle out of chocolate (and was 4th in the world).  You can see him in the above picture, stirring blanched almonds, sugar, and butter into what would eventually become Almond Dragées.  A-MAZ-ing! You might think they’re like other almond candies, but that’s only true in the same way that Bentleys and Hondas are both cars.

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Pulling apart the almonds so they don’t stick together.  Rather important.  God bless silpats.

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We learned all of the basic fundamentals of chocolate, including how to (correctly) temper chocolate, how to make ganache, and how to use molds.  Chef Durfee is seen above spreading ganache out to cool.  Apparently I’ve been going about ganaches all wrong–turns out it requires more than just microwaving a bowl of cream and chocolate bits until it’s melted.  You have to cool it.  And agitate it.  And love it.

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Here’s something interesting.  Truffles.  Chef said you could scoop them out of the ganache, but he prefers piping because it’s faster.

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Behold my mostly perfectly shaped truffles!  

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And for comparison, behold my neighbor’s sad poop-y ganache.

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A quick coat of cocoa powder for some of the truffles (after two baths of perfectly tempered chocolate, naturally).

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In addition to the milk and dark chocolate truffles, we also made coconut lime truffles.  Above, covered in toasted coconut.

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What’s this?  Chocolate on your workstation?  No, no, don’t clean it with a rag…

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Burn it off with freaking propane.  Yeah.  That’s how chocolate gets cleaned off of marble counters in commercial kitchens.  Kind of awesome.

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Back to the almonds.  Added a bit of perfectly tempered chocolate and stirred like crazy.  Chocolate is a weird and delightful thing.  When you first add a bit of chocolate, it’s kind of shiny and soft.  But then it starts to stick to the nuts and it goes absolutely matte, like powder.  It’s science I tell you!

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See?  You just keep mixing and the chocolate totally changes.

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I guess if you are a pastry chef god amongst mere mortals, you have your name put on all your knives.  I pity the fool who tries to steal Chef’s knives.

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Oh!  And we made peanut brittle!  It was SO ridiculously good!  There are several key things to know when making peanut brittle: 1) cook the peanuts raw in the sugar so that the sugar gets the flavor (instead of cooking the sugar and then adding the peanuts at the end); 2) add the baking soda carefully at the end–it will make the batch brown more, so make sure it’s not too brown when you take it off the stove.

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Pour it out onto one of those amazing silpats and spread it out.

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But don’t just spread it out… When the brittle has cooled enough so that you can touch it, get your hands underneath it and gently pull and stretch it.  Doing that makes the brittle easier to eat and not so thick.  Mind blowing I tell you!  It’s science!

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Here’s the start of something fabulous.  Above is the first layer of pecan butter crunch (toffee).  Super buttery and delish!

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But obviously this is a chocolate class, so we’re going to cover it in chocolate and then flip the whole thing over and cover the other side in chocolate too.

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See how the chocolate toffee on the silpat on the right is perfectly shiny and smooth?  And that smear of chocolate on the left looks like matte shit?  There’s a reason!  If you spread chocolate too many times, the back and forth motion will actually dull the finish of the chocolate.  It’s science!

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We made a pretty good looking spread.

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This is a picture from one of the students.  I was kind of mesmerized by her chocolate skills.

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And molding!  We learned how to make molded chocolates.  I made some last night with chocolate cream Bailey’s fillings and dark chocolate shells.  Kind of amazing.

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Draining the inverted mold.  It’s a whole–dare I say it–science.

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But there’s also some creativity involved.  These are two molds that the students were doing.  You put the decorations into the molds before you put the chocolate shell in.  Then when you pop the chocolate out of the shell it’s already decorated and smooth and beautiful.

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See what I mean?

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And I couldn’t help but take a picture of the super top-secret ingredient list for the chocolate kitchen. Some of it is a little “WTF.”

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And how fun is this!  There were several classes going on the same time as ours and we each made each other lunch.  Well, we made dessert…obviously.  The other classes were “Asian Classics” and “CIA Favorites.”  It was one of the best buffets I’ve ever seen.  Everything was phenomenal and it went on for multiple tables.

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One of the best fundamentals I learned was just how to temper chocolate.  I had no idea.  I feel like I have stepped up my pastry game considerably.  My class size was 7 people total, and I received an apron and a fabulous cookbook–kind of a fab deal.  I am definitely planning on taking another CIA At Home class–and you should too!

Sailing on the S.S. Mylanta

Thar she be: The Navigator of the Seas.  Not so much a “cruise ship” as a “gigantic floating country.”  We left the port in New Orleans on Saturday, the 17th, for a 7-day Western Caribbean cruise.  As a first time cruiser, I can safely say, I LOVE cruising!  I can’t wait to plan my next cruise!

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On the inside–this picture is of the promenade, where there are several shops, cafes, bars, etc.  It’s kind of ridiculous how much fits on the ship.  They had multiple parades during our cruise, which were extremely impressive.

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I think this was from our first night.  Cruise ships are mostly about eating ridiculous amounts of food, so forgive me if meals run together a bit.

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Roxana, our server throughout the cruise, was hysterical.  She liked to make fun of Rene, but we were all guilty of ordering like gluttonous fools. 

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On our second night at sea, we had our first formal night.  Awww… aren’t we cute!

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And then… a surprise.  We were invited to dine with the captain!

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The Staff Captain turned out to be less of a salty sailor, and more of a shy, soft spoken Swede.  

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After dinner, another surprise.  The infamous towel animal!  Our first critter was a rather good looking snail.

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On our fourth day, we arrived at Falmouth, Jamaica.  A view from our balcony.

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We decided to do an excursion to the Good Hope Estate, which is a sugar plantation tour.

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Part of the tour involved going up to the main house at the top of the hill.  Totally gorgeous view from the top.

 

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The house was absolutely beautiful.  I have lots of shots on my flickr page, if you’d like to see more.

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And the sugar plantation itself.

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You know what else was awesome?  Lunch.  Red Stripes, jerk chicken, and johnny cakes.

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When we got back to the port, we did a little shopping.  Rene found Wilson, who we all fell in love with.

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Wilson is so pensive.

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The following day we arrived at Grand Cayman.

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Arrrrrrrrrg!  There be pirates in Grand Cayman!

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We took another excursion while there, which turned out to be the best idea ever.  First stop, the turtle farm!  Which had wild chickens running around the front of the building?

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Next stop, the rum factory.  Or really, a store where they try to sell you rum and rum cakes (which are SO GOOD!).  The bus actually started driving away before we realized Cindy and Rene weren’t with us.  Whoops!  Too much rum cake?

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Next stop?  Hell.  No seriously.

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Turns out hell is really just a dead coral reef tourist trap in the Cayman islands.  Who knew?  At least I found out that they do indeed serve beer in Hell:

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Next stop, and my favorite activity of the entire trip (NOLA included): swimming with the stingrays!  We took a boat out to a sandbar, jumped out, and swam with the stingrays.  They are very tame and actually super cute.  I fed** one of them a squid and he came back and rubbed up against my legs, like he was saying “hey thanks!”  They were like big, wet, slimy dogs.

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** When I say that I fed a stingray, what I really mean is that I was given a squid, which I promptly dropped (and screamed like a little girl) when a giant flipping stingray came swimming at me at full speed with it’s mouth open.  I stole this picture off Google, so you can get an idea of what I’m talking about:

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When we got back to the boat later that day, they had decorated for Thanksgiving!

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The following day, Thanksgiving, we went to Cozumel, Mexico.  Not a bad place to spend a holiday.  Cindy being thankful for beer.

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Jumping up and down for beer!

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There’s not much in this world that compares with my mum’s turkey and gravy.  However, if forced to spend Thanksgiving in Cozumel, shrimp tacos on the beach is not a bad substitute.

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And followed up by the obligatory Señor Frogs.  I am thankful for fruity yard drinks.

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And then Rene decided to climb the rock wall.  Because our cruise ship had a flipping rock climbing wall (of course).

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That night, our second formal night, we celebrated Thanksgiving with a feast as only a cruise ship can do.

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What a fabulous trip!  Thank you to all of you who joined, made it possible, or otherwise supported our silly shenanigans!

New Orleans v. 1.1: just the food porn

I know you’re waiting for my cruise blog, but I feel like my NOLA post was lacking.  Here, for your viewing pleasure, is the food porn–and only the food porn.

Our first real night in NOLA at Galatoire’s:

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Someone else’s dessert at Galatoire’s (sweet potato cheesecake, I think):

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What I ordered for dessert, which still haunts me in my dreams: banana bread pudding.  Yes.  With some kind of dreamy caramel bourbon sauce and fresh whipped cream…

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Our second night we went to Commander’s Palace.  I know, you’re expecting a picture of their famous dessert (it’s coming), but instead I give you… the BEST foie gras I have ever had: a gigantic seared lobe over several apple beignets, with a small cafe au lait with the “essence” of foie gras.  The sauce is a traditional caramel sauce with toasted pecans.

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Someone else ordered scallops (Collen I think?).  I remember them being phenomenal.

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And dessert!  Their famous bread pudding soufflé.  Incidentally, I wore that hat all night, including out on Bourbon Street until the wee hours of the evening.  I had a lot of fans.

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Someone’s dessert, which looks fabulous:

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On my actual birthday we went to the WWII museum and had lunch at their restaurant.  I think from now on, all birthday lunches must have a mandatory glass of champagne and assorted to die for cupcakes:

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New Orleans Recap

 

I can’t believe I’ve been 30 for over two weeks now and still haven’t blogged about my most fabulous birthday celebration trip!  It was truly a trip of a lifetime.  I think it’s best to split my blogging into two huge entries: one for New Orleans and one for the cruise (aka, “best trip of my life”).

I’ve never been to New Orleans before, or as I call it, “Land of Sugar and Booze.”  On our first day, we walked around the French Quarter and immersed ourselves in all that is NOLA.  First stop?  Cafe du Monde, of course!

 

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The best cafe au lait I’ve ever had, and the (in)famous beignets!  If you’ve never been to CDM, the floor is disgusting.  Don’t look down.  

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Right around the corner we found Aunt Sally, who was busy making authentic creole pralines, which are basically sugar.  And butter.  And delicious.

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They also sold these crazy gay mermaid holiday ornaments.  We found these in other stores also.  Not sure what’s up with the gay mermaid ornaments and how they fit in with NOLA?  But they’re pretty fabulous.

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As we walked around, it became very evident that NOLA is a city of street performers.  Some of the best street music I’ve ever heard, and some pretty amazing displays of magic, juggling, and balancing on silly things while throwing sharp knives.

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NOLA is also apparently “the place to buy hot sauce.”  And alligator heads?

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It’s really a pretty town, and I’m glad we were able to see it in all of it’s holiday glory.  It’s also quite hot there most days of the year, so I was very appreciative of the perfect weather. 

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I have a lot of food porn to show you, as I’m sure you expect, but for some reason Larry didn’t want to eat as much as we all did?

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We did convince him to join us at Acme Oyster House, where 97% of the menu is fried.  I had the BEST fried oysters ever.  To die for.

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Jason, Colleen and I took a little streetcar ride to… actually… I’m not sure.  We got lost.  But the streetcars are nice!

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Full day 2: Jason, Colleen, Ellyn and myself took a plantation tour about an hour outside of NOLA, just off the mighty Mississippi River (which is gigantic).  First stop, Oak Alley Plantation.  Totally haunted.  And very pretty!

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This lady was our tour guide.  This picture really captures it: she’s in all the garb of the era, but wait, what’s that on the mantle?  A plastic daiquiri cup.  Which she drank while she gave us the tour.  “Ya’ll… this is the dining room.  Ya’ll, they all ate here.  It was hot, ya’ll…”  And so on.

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None of this furniture is original to the house.  But you can’t sell a plantation tour unless the house has furniture, right?

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This picture is a little creepy.  I took it through a window, and you can see me in the reflection in the mirror.  You can also see, just to the right of me, a ghost.  Legit!  I captured an image of a ghost!  (I’m calling that little green bit and the purple bit a ghost.  Roll with it)

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The second plantation we saw was Laura Plantation, which is more of an original creole-style plantation.  A really fascinating story–a couple came over from France to start a sugar plantation.  They built this house, then just before the first harvest, the husband died.  So the wife inherited the whole thing and was allowed to run the business (back when women couldn’t tie their own shoelaces without asking a man’s permission).  And then, when it comes time to pass the business along to the next person in the family, she picks a daughter (not her son!) to run it.  And then she picks a girl, and so on.  Only women ever ran this plantation, which is pretty cool.

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This is also cool–a bonfire!  They light it up on Christmas night so that Papa Noel knows where to come.  Apparently the whole town has bonfires.

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There were more ghosts at this plantation as well, although I didn’t capture them on film.  We were standing in a bedroom during the tour and the guide told us that this man and woman were totally set on their daughter being the next in line to run the plantation, but she developed acne and they were worried that would ruin their chances.  So they took her to a doctor, who gave her a shot to cure the acne, and she died instantly.  The parents came home and the mother sat in this bedroom and never left the room until she died, like twenty years later.  Can you imagine not leaving a room for twenty years?  And the guilt of your daughter dying because you thought her acne was ruining her business prospects?

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We came back after a day of plantations and walked around a bit more.  Not too far from our hotel we stumbled upon the Supreme Court of Louisiana/Court of Appeal Fourth Circuit.  Such lawyer nerds.

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Day 3: we visited the National World War II Museum, which is absolutely phenomenal.  If you go, don’t miss the movie.  It’s a “4-D” movie experience, complete with snow that falls on the audience and seats that rumble.

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Clark Gable!  Swoon!

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On Saturday morning we decided that we really needed to go eat something before we boarded our ship.  Because people starve on cruise ships?!  We visited Mothers, home of the best ham ever.  I completely agree.  I would also add that their biscuits are to die for.

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Next… our cruise!

What do Charlotte, Buck, Poco, Ron Burgandy and Joseph Biden have in common?

Guess where we went to celebrate our first anniversary last weekend?!?  Can’t guess?  How about….

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It’s almost embarrassing for me to say this as a Northern California native, but I had actually never been to Yosemite before. On Friday we decided to take a little weekender in celebration of our first year of wedded bliss. Saturday morning we got up early and headed to the Hotel Charlotte in Groveland (about 45 minutes from Yosemite).  The Hotel Charlotte is a beautiful, relaxing oasis–with no cell phone coverage! Yay! The couple that owns it just reopened it a couple of weeks ago, and they’re doing a fantastic job. I highly recommend grabbing a habañero margarita at the bar and relaxing on a rocking chair on their second floor balcony. Avoid their ghost, Charlotte.

We spent Saturday walking around Groveland.  It didn’t take long, as Groveland is about half a mile from one end to the other. They do have a great museum though, and we spent some quality time there.  Jason got into a scuffle with a bear!

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And I fought off a bobcat!

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The best part of the museum is a table where you can sit and go through old magazines. I went through a few Time and Life magazines from the 60s/70s and check out this Anchorman ad! Ron Burgandy would be so proud!

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You look like a blueberry.

And check out this article about an ambitious young politician running for Senate at age 29. Name ring a bell?

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On Sunday we made the trek to Yosemite.  A lovely view of Half Dome:

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Apparently May is the time to go to Yosemite, because everywhere we looked we saw gorgeous waterfalls. I literally have dozens of pictures of beautiful waterfalls from the trip.

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Our first stop was the Ahwahnee Hotel for brunch. The Ahwahnee is beautiful and their brunch is one of the best I’ve ever had. We timed it right because after our first plate (it’s a buffet) they switched everything over to lunch. So we had the best of both worlds.

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Check out this dessert sampler! 

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After brunch we went on a little nature hike. Jason single-handedly fought off several squirrels. They are everywhere! We were looking for a bear, but didn’t find any. Next time we’ll bring picnic baskets and honey.

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Then we went over to the museum (because we’re museum nerds). There was a great section about getting to Yosemite in the olden days and how much things have changed. These days you just have to sit in a car and drive four hours, going through such places as Oakdale, the “City of Action,” and the place next to the motel with the sign that just said “Girls! Girls! Girls!” Back in the olden days, you had to sit in a flipping wagon for 36 hours. And before that? God only knows. No thank you.

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The museum also had a teepee. I don’t know why.

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And a giant cross section of a tree. This tree is something like 900 years old.

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A close-up. Every little white line is one year…

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Our adventure continued. Can you find the bear in this picture? Okay, how about the squirrel? This is inside a restaurant by the way. See him? He’s moving fast.

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Not fast enough to avoid getting a finger shaking from Jason. Where are your manners, Mr. Squirrel?

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Our afternoon adventure involved a two-hour horseback ride up to Mirror Lake. Jason and his noble steed, Buck.

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Buck was a bit of an asshole. But he came around.

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My horse, Poco (short for Pocahontas, which is totally a girl’s name), was a doll. So sweet! Check out his pretty picture (you can’t see here, but he has a blue eye and a brown eye).

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After the ride we hobbled over to another waterfall. Gorgeous! Followed up by a nice dinner at the Yosemite Lodge. The couple behind us was celebrating their 30th anniversary. Apparently they went to Yosemite for their honeymoon and have gone back every year for the anniversary.

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Day two: more critters. This guy was just walking along the road.

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We took a little nature walk to the giant sequoias. Jason sitting on a giant sequoia:

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This guy was a little mad that we came trampling through his ‘hood. His fault for living amongst the giant sequoias.

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After our hike we decided to check out Hetch-Hetchy on our way out of town. The park ranger told us it would take “twenty minutes” to get there.  An hour later…

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I’m glad we went though. It’s so pretty!

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At the top there’s a little drinking fountain. Imagine the freshest, most delicious water (if water had flavor).

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And then this train wreck was parked next to us in the parking lot. Good bye beautiful nature land, hello crazy people world.

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All in all, a lovely first anniversary. Here’s to many more adventures!

What makes a meal “perfect”?

 

Last night Jason and I were blessed to share a perfect meal with people we love.  There’s no way to say it without it sounding totally obnoxious, but here goes… we had dinner at the French Laundry.

That just rolls right off the tongue.

It was incredible, amazing, delicious, and all of the other adjectives you can imagine.  It got me thinking about what makes a meal good, great, or perfect.  And it’s not the food (although that’s part of it) and it’s not the service (another crucial part of it), it’s really the experience overall.  Who were you with?  What did you talk about?  What did you drink?  How were the bathrooms?

My experience at the French Laundry was a combination of many beautiful, wonderful, perfect things.  The chefs are clearly obsessive about the quality and detail of what they produce, the service was simply breathtaking, and yeah, the bathrooms were pretty nice.  Our company was fantastic, although we had such a good time (and the room was so small) that I was concerned about our neighbors hating us.

The best meal of my life–before last night–was at Le Bernadin in New York.  I had lobster on a bed of foie gras stuffing and it made me cry.  That is my benchmark by which all other meals are measured.  But was the experience amazing because of the food?  The service?  Or because it happened to take place about an hour before my future husband proposed at the top of the Empire State building?

There are many small details that took last night’s dinner to the next level, and I think that plays a big part in being able to call a meal “perfect.” The fact that one of the servers picked up on something we kept saying and started saying it herself.  The fact that they clearly googled all of us before we got there.  Yeah.  Fact.  The black winter truffle that they keep in a locked box (they bring the whole thing out when they shave it onto your hand-cut tagliatelle).  The fact that everything is served on the most incredible dishes I’ve ever seen–and clearly made specially for the FL.  One of our friends doesn’t drink and instead of just bringing her something they *paired* each dish with a special concoction just for her.  And each drink was incredible.  And when another guest started feeling the wine they brought him out bitters and soda to sober him up.  Which I didn’t know was even possible.

And then there’s the food itself.  Twenty-two separate plates of incredible.  There were six of us dining together last night and the way they served us in unison was like a dance.  Beautifully choreographed, stunningly executed.  So here’s the menu in full with my highlights:

The first of the canapés was a creamy, gooey and surprisingly delicate gruyere cheese gougere.  Good.

The next canapé was a salmon tartare cornet.  Ridiculous.  Imagine a tiny ice cream cone filled with a red onion cream cheese mix and topped with finely chopped salmon tartare.  Stupid good.

LEEK VELOUTE; “Ris de Veau” and Cara Cara Orange–a delightful little soup.  It comes out in a “magic bowl” with just a little sweetbread in the bottom and a couple of tiny pieces of orange, and then the servers (all in unison, obviously) pour the soup over it.  Super hot, super good, with a few surprising hints of “wow-where did that flavor come from?”

OYSTERS AND PEARLS; “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar–quite possibly my favorite item of the evening.  Imagine a little custard with two oysters and a healthy scoop of caviar.  Served with a little mother-of-pearl spoon.  Custom made, of course.  And served on five plates.  They take the idea of chargers up a notch.

FRUITS DE MER; Chorizo, Globe Artichoke and Jingle Bell Peppers–actually my least favorite item on the menu.  Aptly described as paella without the rice.  A big hit with others at our table though.

SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER “MITT”; Black Pepper “Melba,” Hass Avocado, Red Radish and “Ranch Dressing”–the avocado on this dish really showcased the chefs’  impressive knife skills.  I can’t even imagine how they cut it so small, so perfect, so uniform, and then displayed it so well–and repeated it exactly on everyone’s dish.  It’s kind of mind-boggling how much time was spent on each dish.

PACIFIC BLACK COD “CHOWDER”; Salmon Roe and Celery Branch “Fume a la Minute”–yum.  And interestingly, paired with a beer!  Can you imagine sitting in the finest restaurant in the Napa Valley–drinking a beer?  How about if it’s specially made just for the French Laundry? Blue Apron Ale from the Brooklyn Brewery, a special brew for Chef Keller. Thanks for sharing, Tom.

HEN EGG CUSTARD; with a Ragout of Perigord Truffles–this dish really exemplifies the FL.  It comes out in a hollowed-out eggshell and tastes divine.  Beautiful and the flavor was incredible. I seem to remember being told that the hens are personally spoken to by Chef Keller every morning, who tells them how special they are.

SALAD OF HOLLAND WHITE ASPARAGUS; Serrano Ham, French Laundry Garden beets,Wild Ramps and Black Winter Truffle–probably the best salad I’ve ever had.  Did you know they have a garden across the street where their veggies come from?  The garden beets were so tiny that we joked about how they had just planted them yesterday.  Pretty yummy!

MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS AU TORCHON”; Graham Cracker, Pickled Blueberries,Celery Branch and Toasted Pecans–this dish was surprisingly large for what it was (essentially a foie gras cheesecake).  And I’m glad it was, because even thinking about it now is making my mouth water.  Incredible!

SAUTEED FILLET OF NEW ZEALAND JOHN DORY; Dungeness crab, English Peas, Nantes Carrots and Black Winter Truffle. The John Dory voluntarily jump into nets marked “FL” on the fishing boat, Bouchon, for a chance to be this delicious.

MAINE DIVER SCALLOP “POELEE”; Hobbs’ Bacon, Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus, Morel Mushrooms, Field Rhubarb and “Sauce Hydromel”–the best (and biggest) scallop ever created.  Perfectly seared and delightful.  Morel mushrooms were amazing with it.

HAND-CUT “TAGLIATELLE”; with Shaved Black Winter Truffle–utterly delightful and very rich.  The pasta itself was perfectly cooked and the presentation of the truffle was really well done.  Beautiful!

LIBERTY FARM PEKIN DUCK; Michigan Sour Cherries, Young Fennel and Red Walnuts–I don’t even know what red walnuts are, and I grew up on a walnut farm.

49 DAY DRY-AGED SNAKE RIVER FARMS BEEF; Broccoli, Red Radish, Petite Onions and “Sauce Japonaise”–this is going to sound silly, but you could taste the age in the beef.  Jason swears they sliced the beef with a laser because every cut was perfectly uniform, with sharp 90 degree angles one sees on ships, aircraft, and other incredibly built structures, but not steak. The servers told us that Chef Keller personally cut the beef course, and in the way only an obsessive chef who is clearly in love with food could.

“LANDAFF”;  “Pruneaux d’Agen,” Pine Nuts, Mache and Black Truffle–the cheese course.  Good, but doesn’t touch Meadowood’s cheese course, which is still the best I’ve ever had.

WINTER CITRUS “SANGRIA”; Persian Lime Sorbet and Ginger “Nuage”–very refreshing and (obviously) delicious.

TRES LECHES “PAIN PERDU”; Golden Pineapple and Rum Reduction–I would have licked the plate if I could have gotten away with it.

CREAM CHEESE MOUSSE; Navel Orange, Cardamom and Acacia Honey “Granite”–the only way I can describe it is that it was like a cheesecake, which is an incredibly unfair description.  The garnish was a super chilled “ice” which melted in your mouth. Amazing.

MIGNARDISES–toasted chocolate macadamia nuts.  At this point we were at “stupid full” and couldn’t appreciate them the way they deserve to be.

Coffee, served with donuts lightly dusted with sugar (amazing).

At the end of the evening they sent us home with little shopping bags of goodies (chocolates, cookies).  I am currently enjoying my coffee with the best shortbread I’ve ever inhaled.

Oh!  I almost forgot!  The wine!  I’m just going to give you the list.  If you’re a wine person, you’ll get it.  There’s also a beer on there, which was flipping amazing (and surprising).  Special shout out to our cousin Hamilton (the sommelier) who provided the Bertani and the ridiculous 1982 bordeaux.

Krug, “Grande Cuvee,” Reims, Champagne MV

Pazo Senorans, Albarino, Rias Baixas 2010

Brooklyn Brewery, “Blue Apron Ale,” Brooklyn, New York

Nigl, Gruner Veltliner, “Pellingen Privat,” Kremstal 2010

Meyer-Fonne, Pinot Gris, “Hinterburg,” V.T., Alsace 2008

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Meursault, “Charmes,” ler Cru Burgundy 2008

Pianpolvere Soprano, Barolo Riserva, “Bussia,” Piedmont 2000

Bertani, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto 1968

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, Bordeaux 1982

Huet, Vouvray Demi- Sec, “Cuvee Constance,” Loire 2005


 

So that pretty much sums up what makes a meal perfect.  No single ingredient was ever repeated during the meal.  Literally each bite was incredible and a masterpiece unto itself.  The service made the meal sparkle–they were there before you even knew you needed something, and they disappeared without you noticing.

And the most important factor of all: the company was exquisite!  We can’t wait for Lauren and Hamilton to move to Napa so we can enjoy many more adventures with them 🙂

 

Top o’ the Pops

For Father’s Day my mum had a lovely brunch for us (and by “us” I mean the man of the hour, aka “Dad”, Ellyn, Larry, Papa Sam, Brian, Carole, Lynne, Mark, Lauren, Becky, Jim, Curt, Al, Dean, Sarah, Olivia, Ethan, Aden, Jason and myself).  I decided to attempt cake pops again and I have to say they turned out pretty darn good.  Just ask Skipper, who managed to eat three (chocolate!) cake pops off the floor before anyone could stop him.  Props to my sister Lynne who actually fished a cake pop out of his mouth without losing a finger.

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les papillons et les gens laids

We’re home now, but there are so many more stories to share!  Last Sunday we had brunch at the Westin in Dawn Beach.  Little did we know, it was Mother’s Day on the island and apparently the Westin is the best spot on the island for brunch.  So needless to say, we were not alone.  And because we didn’t make a reservation, they stuck us at the only table left, which was in the scorching sun–and right in front of the ocean with the best view imaginable!  The brunch was hands-down the best either of us have ever had.

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Speaking of good food, there’s an interesting thing we’ve noticed about the French restaurants here.  They are completely addicted to beautiful china and making food look like art.  Several spots even have their own handmade china (although nothing beats Le Tastevin, which serves their food on Villeroy and Boch).  We ate at L’auberge Gourmande one night and their china was gorgeous, second only to the beautiful food they served on it.

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On Tuesday we visited La Ferme des Papillons (the butterfly farm), which is a big enclosed mesh space where they have hundreds of rare butterflies flying around.  We walked around a bit on our own and then Willy gave us a tour and explained why he raises them, where they are all from, what makes them interesting, etc.  I have hundreds of photos of these beauties, but here are some of the ones I liked the best:

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We spent the rest of the afternoon driving around and exploring the island.  One thing that surprised us both about St. Maarten are the goats–they are EVERYWHERE.  You can’t drive around without having to stop for some random goats.

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That night we very randomly decided to visit Le Tijon, the island’s only French-style parfumerie.  We signed up for a beginner’s class and ended up being the only ones there.  We smelled several different fragrances and picked our favorites, then we put on our lab coats and headed to the laboratory, where we each designed several different perfumes, choosing from among the hundreds of different scented oils.  It was a BLAST and now we have our very own personalized perfumes!

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After having a lovely time at Le Tijon, we headed to Bistrot Caraibes for dinner.  We picked out our dinner and decided to try him “thermidor.”  It was the best thing we ate on our entire trip–INCREDIBLE!

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On Wednesday we did a day trip to St. Barths.  A quick 45 minute ferry ride away (on the aptly-named “vomit comet”), St. Barths is lovely and extremely expensive.  We got off the ferry and found out that our choices were shopping, shopping, or more shopping–at Louis Vuitton, Cartier, etc.  I drooled over a nice purse at LV for 850 Euro (about $1,200 US), and Jason drooled over a watch that was 17,000 Euro (about $24,000 US).  We grabbed a taxi and headed to Hotel Le Toiny for lunch.  There are no hotel rooms at Le Toiny, only 15 villas, each of which has its own private pool.  Villas start at 1,250 euro a night.  We had lunch at their restaurant (alone–no one else was there), which was good, but made great by the most stunning view.  The picture doesn’t even do it justice:

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Our taxi driver drove us around the island and dropped us off at a bar, where we relaxed and watched the super rich play on the beach.  Jason got up at some point to use the restroom and came back laughing hysterically.  Apparently when he asked where the bathroom was located, they told him there was a problem with the restroom.  An iguana (or “iguane” as they called it) had gotten lost and ended up in front of the bathroom door.  “Iguanes” are protected on St Barths, so they couldn’t do anything about it.  Jason offered to herd him away from the restroom, but they were concerned about him pooing on their merchandise.

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Here’s a picture of us pretending to be rich and famous in St Barths:

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On Thursday, our last real day in St Maarten, we decided to hit up Ocean Beach again because we enjoyed it so much before.  We claimed a couple of chairs and an umbrella, bought a couple of Presidentes, and did some serious people watching.  Quite possibly our favorite story of the entire trip occurred there.  While we were sitting and sipping, a French woman, approximately in her later 60’s, walked by.  She had on a beautiful dress, her hair was coiffed to perfection, she was covered in gold jewelry and was carrying the biggest Louis Vuitton purse I’ve ever seen.  Mind you, it’s about a zillion degrees out and the humidity is approximately 120%.  She stops a couple dozen feet from us, looks around suspiciously, and drops her $5k gorgeous purse in the wet sand (I nearly cried).  Looking around some more, she cautiously starts unbuttoning her dress… and takes it off.  She puts the dress in her purse and now everyone in a 30 foot radius is staring at her in her see-through bra and panties (did I mention that she’s old and overweight?).  She backs into the ocean, watching her purse the whole time.  After a couple of minutes, she comes back out and her see-through bra and panties are REALLY see-through.  It’s a train wreck and no one can look away.  She gets back to her purse, pulls out a gorgeous silk scarf, and plants her big wet ass on it.  Then she pulls out a Louis Vuitton hat and a thermos of coffee (did I mention it’s roughly the temperature of the sun?) and sips away.  After a few more minutes, our “beach waiter” Guy approaches her and she gathers her things and leaves.  I can hear you asking for photographic evidence of this horrific moment in time.  Enjoy (but don’t say I didn’t warn you).

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delicieux!

When I last left you I was sunburned and still had mental images of the old floppy men on Orient Beach.  So much has happened since then!  Mostly fabulous food 🙂  That night we went to dinner at L’Escapade, which was nice.  Jason had the tiger prawns on a bed of risotto (which came to the table on fire) and I had the lobster ravioli (the frothy thing below).  Both dishes were delightful.

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Instead of having dessert there, we opted for a crepe “lolo” (food truck/shack).  We had nutella crepes and they were phenomenal!

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The next day, yesterday, we had breakfast at Le Croissanterie (the best croissant I’ve ever devoured) and sat in front of the bay enjoying coffee and watching the mega yachts try to make their way into slips in the marina.  We’ve been drooling at boats since we got here.  That afternoon we decided to visit La Samanna, which is a luxury resort on the southwest end of the island.  It’s about a thousand dollars a night for the cheapest rooms and approximately $9,000 a night for the villas.  We had a drink and pretended for a bit, but we left deciding two things: 1) we were having way more fun at our awesome hotel, L’Esplanade, and 2) one day if we win the lottery we’re bringing our friends here for a luxurious-ridiculous-over-the-top vacation.

That evening we visited the Sunset Bar and Grill, which is right at the end of the main runway at Princess Juliana Airport, the main airport of SXM.  We sat and enjoyed rum punches while airplanes came in and landed right next to us.  It was lovely–even when it started raining and everyone went running for shelter.  We sat and sipped and enjoyed.  We were joined by one of the local SXM dogs that randomly run around looking super happy.

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For dinner we picked up bbq from a super sketchy roadside shack.  It was INCREDIBLE, even though they didn’t speak English and my French is terrible, we managed to make it happen.  We brought it back to our hotel and ate on the balcony with a bottle of French champagne.

This morning we went to the market at Marigot and strolled around.  We ended up having breakfast at Rosemary’s, which is allegedly the oldest lolo in Marigot.  We each had an entire fried fish accompanied by a johny cake and coffee.  Heaven.  A weird breakfast, but so good.

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Our next adventure was a visit to Anse Marsel, a little secluded beach not too far from our hotel.  The drive over the mountain to this little beach was crazy–getting there is not easy.  When we got there we sat at this little shack on the beach and had a beer:

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On the way out, we passed by a school.  It had this crazy sign that we have not been able to figure out.  Is school dangerous here?  If you show up for school, do you risk falling down a large cliff?

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A few seconds later we were driving past a house and I just happened to notice an effing donkey in front of it.  Seriously, a donkey in front of the house sniffing a large planter right by the front door.  Where the hell did this donkey come from?!?

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We had cocktails at Loterie Farm, which is beautiful and famous for its hiking trails and ziplines.  Hiking in SXM sounded fun until we got here–in reality, it’s about a million degrees and like 99% humidity.  We haven’t stopped sweating since we got here.  Hiking is not in my future.  But having a rum punch in the tree house is totally my thing.

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We spent the rest of the afternoon at the hotel pool, completely alone, swimming and soaking up the sun.

Tonight we had one of the best meals of our lives (comparable to Le Bernardin, Meadowood, Redd, etc.) at Le Pressoir.

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I started with the fois gras tasting menu, which was flipping fantastic.  See that little dish in the bottom right-hand corner?  That’s fois gras creme brulee.  Yeah.  Stupid good.

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Jason had the lobster ravioli in a passion fruit cream sauce.  It was so good… um… I guess I demolished it before I had a chance to capture it.

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I just went upstairs to brush my teeth and a roach the size of a buick scurried across the counter like a little disgusting lightening bolt.  I screamed and jumped on the bed (which is somehow safe from roach attack?) and made Jason dispatch of it.  He was doing well until he hit the roach and somehow the roach started to scurry up his arm and I heard the quickest of girly screams.  Eventually he got it and now we’re both disgusted.  Well, as disgusted as you can be after eating fois gras creme brulee.

 

Cake pops!

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There’s no better way to alleviate wedding stress than baking.  Especially when you’re trying out a new recipe.  Cake pops are ridiculously delicious (think of a hybrid between cake and truffles) and surprisingly easy to make.

Step one: buy a box of cake mix and bake it.  Let it cool overnight.

Step two: take the cake from the day before and stick it in the food processor until it looks like bread crumbs.  Put the bread crumbs in your kitchenaid, add 3/4 of a tub of frosting (do NOT use the whole tub!).  Make balls–I used a cookie scoop to make round, evenly-sized balls.  Stick the balls in the fridge.

Step three: take lollipop sticks, dip them in melted chocolate (or candy melts, which seem to work best), and stick them into the cake ball.  This part is important (and was my first mistake): stick everything back in the fridge for another hour after you’ve inserted the lollipop sticks.  It’s what makes the cake ball actually stay put on the stick (my first one fell right off into the chocolate when I tried to dip it).

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Step three: take your cake balls and dip them into the chocolate (just until it hits the chocolate on the stick).  Slowly twirl the cake ball over the chocolate, tapping gently on the side of the mug/bowl to let extra chocolate fall off.  Keep twirling until the chocolate stops moving around.  Add some sparkly sprinkle flare.  Stick in styrofoam and let set.  When it’s set, you can put it in the fridge.

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Here’s the amazing thing–they last for like two weeks in the fridge without going bad (and several days on the counter).  Even more amazing?  They taste like heaven.

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